The vineyard-lined Moselle River valley provides a uniquely inviting setting for a particularly enjoyable bicycle tour. Trace some 300 kilometers of the river’s meandering bends and curves while learning about its rich and varied history. Test whether the light and fruity Moselle wines live up to their reputation, and stroll (or roll) through the ancient narrow lanes and splendid avenues of the river’s charming villages and historic cities.
This bicycle touring atlas includes detailed maps of the countryside and of
many cities and towns, precise route descriptions, information about historic
and cultural sites as well as background information and a comprehensive list
of overnight accommodations. The one thing this atlas cannot provide is fine
cycling weather, but we hope you encounter nothing but sunshine and gentle tailwinds.
The Moselle River offers everything one could expect from a typical European
wine-growing region. Countless orderly rows of grapevines cover much of the
steep slopes that rise from both sides of the river. Nestled among the many
vineyards lie timeless quaint villages and hamlets. Charming old stone or half-timbered
houses meet the eye in every direction. Many of these buildings are used to
press, store and serve the delicious white wines that the region’s mild
climate helps produce. As the region’s inhabitants like to say, “There’s
always time for a glass of wine.”
And at the end of the day, find restful accommodations in an old half-timbered
farmhouse snuggly set between the vineyards.
As if the idyllic verdant landscape were not enough, the river is lined with
imposing castles and the ruins of old fortifications, each of which has its
own story to tell. Learn the strange tales and legends that have become part
of the valley’s long and colorful history.
That history does not, of course, begin with the Romans. But it is they who left many of the oldest and most impressive edifices. Their splendid palaces, amphitheaters, public baths, bridges, aqueducts and many other structures bear witness to the knowledge and skill they brought to this corner of central Europe. After the arrival of Christianity, it was the Frankish kings and the Archbishops of Trier that ruled the land, and built many of the castles, churches, cloisters and monasteries that today recall the Moselle’s long and rich history.
The Moselle cycling route from Metz to Koblenz covers 304 kilometers, not including
possible detours and excursions away from the main route.
Road surface and traffic
The quality of the route is especially excellent in Germany, where virtually the entire route is paved. The first stage of the cycle route, between Metz and Thionville in France, has not yet been completed, but even here there are only a few short sections along gravel roads. A finished cycling path follows the Moselle for almost the entire distance between Thionville and Perl.
Traffic volume along the Moselle is varied. Between Metz and Thionville the route includes several short stretches along busy roads. For most of the distance from Thionville to Cochem, cycle trails separate from motorized traffic are available on one or the other side of the river. The stretch between Cochem and Kobern is less ideal: The route follows a designated bicycle lane painted directly adjacent on the main road. Beyond Kobern, the route returns to cycling paths and quiet side streets for the final stretch into Koblenz.
Signs mark the bicycle route from Thionville to Koblenz. The detours and excursions described in this guide do not always have roadside signs.
The popularity of bicycle tourism and mountain biking in Germany has grown significantly in the last ten to fifteen years. Recognizing this trend, German tourism agencies have helped support the creation of many bicycle trails, networks and long-distance routes. These follow separate designated bikeways or quiet minor and secondary roads. Only rarely do marked bicycle routes make use of busy roads. Most cities also feature extensive networks of bicycle trails and routes that help make bicycle riding safe and pleasant. In general, riding a bicycle in Germany is relatively safe – partly because there are many well-designed bikeways and routes, partly because motorized traffic is accustomed to sharing the roads with an ever-growing number of bicyclists.
Citizens bearing a valid passport from Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore or the United States of American may enter Germany for up to three months without a special entry-visa. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from a German embassy or consulate. This visa is valid for three months and enables the bearer to travel within all countries of the European Union.
International code for dialing Germany: ++49
International code for dialing France: ++33
Every German city has its own local telephone area code. In rural areas, several
communities may share a single area code. The area code must be dialed whenever
a call is made from a phone in a different area code. When calling from outside
Germany, dial the international country code ++49 followed by the local area
code without the initial “0”.
When using the telephone in France, it is always necessary to dial the local
area code before the individual number – even when placing a local call.
Both Germany and France use simple five-digit postal codes, which are always
shown in front of the name of the town or city. Larger towns and cities may
have more than one postal code.
The Moselle valley bicycle tour described in this guide begins in Metz, in the Lorraine region of France. After the small city of Thionville the bicycle route heads toward the area where Germany, France and Luxembourg meet. The route enters Germany at the small town of Perl, and for the next kilometers down river the Moselle forms the border between Germany and Luxembourg.
One hot tip is an outing to the capital of Luxembourg. At one time the city’s
massive fortifications rendered the capital unassailable. Today its concrete
and glass office buildings house bankers from around the world.
The route’s first stage follows in the footsteps of the ancient Romans,
leading to Konz, near the Roman temple complex at Tawern.
No marked bicycle trail has been built between Metz and Thionville, but we have identified the best possible route between the two cities. It mostly follows quiet country roads, though occasionally it becomes necessary to ride short stretches on more-heavily traveled roads. Starting from Thionville, there is a bicycle trail along the river all the way to Konz.
This stage of the tour passes through the ancient city of Trier, where it is said that 2,000 paces can cover 2,000 years of history. The Romans established the city as their local capital, and built the famous Porta Nigra, the gigantic black gate. The amphitheater, the imperial baths and the numerous palaces in the surrounding area testify to the role Trier played in Roman times. In the middle ages, Frankish kings and the arch-bishops of Trier reigned. They also left important edifices. The city’s most important economic asset was traditionally the wine trade. Wine barrels were transported by ship on the river or along the Roman wine road. Follow the traces of this history through the valley as it winds toward Bernkastel-Kues, with its quaint houses and romantic squares.
A bicycle trail runs the entire length of the main route. Possible excursions include outings up the Ruwer valley and to Ramstein Castle.
The last section of the tour is noteworthy especially for the steep vineyards that line the valley, and the cozy little villages along the winding Moselle. The landscape is dotted with delicate half-timbered houses and imposing stone castles and ruins. And it would be a pity to neglect the delicious wines, some of which bear odd and imaginative names like “Kröver Nacktarsch” (which means “bare bottom”) or “Zeller Schwarze Katz” (black cat) or “Bullayer Brautrock” (bridal gown). This section of the trip also brings the bicycle tourist through some of the Moselle’s most beautiful and best-known towns, including Traben-Trarbach, Zell an der Mosel and above all the tiny Beilstein, which has provided a fairytale setting for several films.
You also have the option of an excursion to what most people regard as the
most beautiful castle in the Moselle region, Burg Eltz, and to the fertile Maifeld
countryside north of the river. The main cycle route follows bike trails most
of the way between Bernkastel-Kues and Cochem. From Cochem downstream to Kobern-Gondorf
the route is on a cycle lane on the edge of the busy main road. The last stretch
into Koblenz then leads over bike trails and quiet side streets and roads.
If you do not wish to take your bicycle tour independently, there are private operators who can help organize your vacation. These companies can provide bicycles and other equipment, group tours led by experienced guides, hotel reservations and baggage transport, enabling you to plan an entirely unencumbered tour of the river according to your needs.
The German-language tour operators can also provide information, some of which
is available in English. Eurobike, an operator based in the United States, also
runs a bicycle tour along the Moselle from Trier to Koblenz. More information
is available from www.eurobike.com.